Day 15: Walbec (wild camp, parking lot) - Wissel (wild camping, windmill site)

Friday August 23
Cycle: 73.38km //4h41m // 15.61km/hr
Today we cycled through farming land and small towns. We saw lots of cornfields, maturing wheat fields, and giant greenhouses. Lots of goreat cycling on the maze of well maintained bike paths. On another note, we're becoming accustomed to scowls from people who (we think) view us as homeless troublemakers, or perhaps gypies? Hard to say. We are homeless, sort of. Sitting outside grocery stores eating food probably doesn't help our cause. But, we're usually so hungry and thirsty by the time we're there, that that is what happens.

We passed through the cute town of Trevelar, and happened upon a procession of people making there way to an impressive church at the centre of town. As per usual, we've no idea what was going on, but suspect it had something to do with a certain someone name Maria. By the end of today, we were falling apart a little. All of our clothes were dirty, we really wanted a shower, and a nice camp site with some privacy was the ticket. Sadly, it was not to be. As night descended we found an abandoned wind mill site and set up camp as discretely as possible (there were other houses and a busy road very near by). In the dark we pitched the tent and made food. We were welcomed by a little hedgehog (who made a huge racket for such a little creature).

Poppet basks in the sun in Trevelar's main square. 

Day 14: Sturzelberg (campsite) - Walbec (wild camp, parking lot)

Thursday August 22
Cycle: 97.10km // 5h56m // 16.36
Tired of the same sights and sounds, today we decided to head off the Rhine Route, and strike off on our own path (good bye fellow cycle tourists following the Rhine Route).  On one hand this was a good idea. There were lots of new sights, including tiny quaint German towns, each with a market square and spired church at the centre. On the other hand, navigation was stressful and confusing as there were so many bike route signs. We spent most of our time going to the wrong way, or sort of the right way, but not really getting 'there'. I tried to remember that there isn't really anywhere we're supposed to be, so there isn't really a wrong way. Right? That said, when its late, you want to sleep, you want to shower, you're hungry, the list of basic needs goes on... there is definitely a right and a wrong way to go. As night descended, we ending up camping in a parking lot for RV's. Here we met Marco and Chris in there eye catching military truck. This truck can drive across the desert and can be seen in races like Dakar. They gave us a tour and we were very impressed by their 80L water carrying capacity and portable shower (aka jealous).  The step up into the trucks cab was a bordering on a climbing move. We enjoyed entertaining conversation about their travels, and appreciated their help on getting into a nearby swimming pool for free showers in the morning. They suggested that if we want to ensure good weather, we following the white boxes around Europe. Noted.

Today we acquired little black bells. These are essential in Europe. If you come here, get one. There are so many cyclists.

There is such this as too many signs! 

Those who cycle together... enjoy cabbage fields together.

Marco and Chris in front of their ride!

We like it too!

"Living the Dream" Exhibit F. Food sprawled in the dark in some RV parking lot. Trying to put together something you could call dinner. Table? Chairs ? Pah!

Day 13: Rolandswerth (campsite) - Sturzelberg (campsite)

Wednesday August 21
Cycle: 89.1km // 4h50m // 18.55km/hr
More cycling along the Rhine today. The views were much as they were yesterday, but Jenn's realization continued. First off was the discovery of the legend and scale on maps. Very handy for finding things.  The next realization was that red lights are the great equalizer of cycle tourists (we played catch-up with several other cyclists throughout the day. Naturally we were faster, if only there were no red lights).

We cycled through Cologne, and glimpsed a mighty cathedral thingy in the neo-gothic style. Then we glimpsed a thousand tourists and thought twice about hanging around too long. We continued along the Rhine, out of town, and found our next campsite by the river. This was perhaps our worst euro-camping experience, and prompted our resolve to wild camping if at all possible from now on.

This.. leads to...

THIS!

Many tourists in Cologne gravitated to this church.

A Krombacher on the beach to celebrate another day along the Rhine.

The Rhine Route is not benevolent. Look what it did to my pot! Not a gun shot.

But slow and steady friction (over cobblestones and root bumps) achieves the same end! Good bye pot. : ( 

Day 12: Oberwesel (campsite) - Rolandswerth (campsite)

Tuesday August 20th
Cycle: 102.73km // 5h19m // 19.27 km/hr
We continued cycling along the Rhine after our one day stop in Oberwesel. The ride today was flat but very bumpy. Views included: the Rhine, barges, vineyards, the city of Koblenz, and several castles nestled in river bends. Apparently we cycle faster than the barges! Win! However, they do not need to stop and eat. On the bike path we met an old German man who's cycled 60,000 km's in Germany alone. He was wearing a very weathered red jacket (now pink from the sun), and I was tempted to think he's been wearing it the whole time. He would understand my jacket obsession. Today, Jenn exclaimed, "I understand now why route mapping 10 months of travels is impossible". I'm not sure what prompted this realization, but I nodded my head in agreement. No no no. You can't. Jenn also realized several items missing from her life, and sought to fill the void: peanut butter, nutella, shampoo, soap, and dish washing liquid. So much for lightening the load. Camping today was typical euro-camping: a grass field devoid of trees or picnic tables with tents jumbled on top of each other.

Good morning Rhine. How misty you look today.

Rhine, I'm going to drink my coffee next to you, and try to blog. You've watched humans prod at things for 1000 years at this very site. Surely I'm not an interruption to your flow.

Living the dream. Exhibit A!

Another castle adorning the Rhine.

The bike route passed right through Koblenz, and this giant statue. We decided it was a good place for lunch.

The official insect of the EU is the wasp. Everywhere we've gone, they've followed. They are particularly fond of Jenn, and salami. Be warned!

Day 11: Oberwesel (campsite)

Monday August 19th
We awoke to sunny skies... but a puddle in our tent. Apparently it rained in the night, and the Hubba Hubba may not be up to 10 months of cycle touring... or even 10 days. Next time you consider getting a light-weight tent with a 3000 PU rated floor, shake your head, slap your own wrist, and walk away.

So, Oberwesel lies in middle of a UNESCO heritage site. Well, the Middle Rhine, including the towns, the vallies, the vineyards, etc, are all part of the site. Oberwesel in a fully fortified town (unusual in Germany), and you can walk the perimeter of the amazingly well preserved town wall, taking in turrets, draw bridges, moats, the whole bit. Rather than cycle away, we decided to explore the town and adorning castle.

Our mission is to eat every German pastry atleast once. 

One of many stairways up onto the walls surrounding the city.

Turrets and car parks. A natural combination.

Jenn keeps a watch.

All Along the Watchtower

Walking the town wall in the brilliant sun.

Oberwesel looking south(ish) down the Rhine.

Grass had replaced what used to be a moat?

One of several churches in town.

Oberwesel looking north(ish) up the Rhine.  Here we've climbed up to the castles that looked down on us last night.

Roots and stone, holding it together.

Day 10: Frankfurt - Oberwesel (camping)

Sunday August 18th
Cycle: 105.21km // 6h09m // 17.1
Our first real day of cycling in Germany was fairly uneventful, quite long, and followed the Rhine river west and north (leaving major cities is never that much fun). To keep things interesting, we tried to stop every 20km or so. The first stop was for espresso in the little tourist town of Eltville. I'm not sure what the attraction was here, but on and off rain kept us from investigating further. Plus, we were eager to cover some distance on our first riding day... we pressed on. Bike routes out of Frankfurt were plentiful, and a little confusing because of this. Directions from locals (who all seem to speak some English) made finding the Rhine Route fairly straight forward. We cycled the east coast of the Rhine for about 80km before jumping on a tiny ferry that took us to the west coast (transit time 5 mins). We continued cycling up the west side until we tired and found a small /cheap campsite (with wifi!). Jenn had a happy hour bratwurst (Germany= sausage), and we both had a Bietburger. This beer was exceedingly light, but after a long hot day of cycling was very thirst quenching and hit the spot. Today's impressions include the smell of the Rhine, the presence of Ortlieb panniers, and the realization that we've now slept next to train, plane, and boat highways.

Germans know a thing or two about pastries... this thing is huge, and delicious

Jenn enjoying her German pastry of the day. Next time: chocolate flavour.

Urban Rhine Route. Barges would become a regular site over the next couple days of cycling.

As would elaborate graffiti

Even locals have to scratch their heads when figuring out the proper route out of Frankfurt!

Its not just the legs. The arms get a work out on one of the Rhine overpasses.

What goes up, must come down... all 100+ lbs of it.

When you order coffee, you will get a tiny little cup, just like this one. I dont look convinced.

Castles, vineyards, and the glorious Rhine.

And in the next river bend, again

A light beer never tasted so good! We arrived at the campsite, and made it no further than the patio outside reception.

The view from our tent tonight. A castle dominating one of the hills surrounding Oberwesel, part of a UNESCO world heritage site.

Day 9: Frankfurt

Saturday August 17th

Apparently we've not yet recovered for jet lag --- we accidentally slept in until 12:30, and could have kept right on. Today we hung around the hostel preparing to be off tomorrow. We fixed bikes, planned our route, and tried to blog (a terrible internet connection thwarted this plan). Jenn discovered the hostels food donation bin... (a staple of any good hostel) and proceeding to take most of the food in it. We donated laundry soap in lieu. We also tried out first German beer, Weissbier, a very bready unexpected concoction.

Poppet gets a little TLC

Room with a view... and excellent shutters

"Living the Dream", exhibit 7a.ii.