Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Day 17: Stone Hotel to Fort Spion in Loenen/Loosdrecht

Cycle: 28km//1hr48min//15.57km/hr
Sunday August 25
It is always a bit of a dilemma on what to do when you arrive in a city and stay overnight. You very much want to go sightseeing, but there is always a long list of more basic things that need to be done. First of all, we had a bed to sleep in, so naturally we indulged and got up a bit later than normal. The Stone Hotel was small, but packed in a lot of people. Consequently, making breakfast was a challenge as we had to play twister around other people to get to the counter space. This hostel also had the narrowest, steepest, smallest, most spider-webby staircases imaginable. I couldn't help but look for the escape routes.

Our to do list was pretty big:
1-find bike route maps and camping maps.. in english
2-find a pot to replace the one that the cobblestones ate through
3-research a tents available to replace the Hubba Hubba.

Utrecht on a Sunday morning was wonderful to cycle around. Completely different from Saturday afternoon, when we had to squeeze though the crowds for many blocks to get out of the train/downtown area and to the hotel. It just so happens that our arrival in Utrecht coincided with a musical festival AND a mussel festival. We happened upon a live outdoor stage, found chairs on a open patio, and enjoyed delicious dark beers (Trappist Westmalle Dubbel) while soaking up the energy of this lively, pretty city. In Utrecht's tourist information office we found a little handbook on small natural campsites in Holland, guaranteeing few people, natural surroundings, and eco friendly practices. Jenn speaks Dutch conversational, but never learned to read or write, so it was an amusing challenge to pick apart the directions to these little places (we didn't realize how lucky we were to find this book until later).
The little book that would lead us to all the best small natural campsites.
Stone Hotel agreed to hold our panniers for the day, and when we returned they were exactly where we left them... (so much for the storage locker).. a.very antisocial piece of luggage. We set off for the Fort Spion natural campsite, directions courtesy of our little book. The bike paths in Holland are amazingly beautiful and endless. They have paths on every road, but they also have a path system that will take you to your destination on more scenic routes. At Fort Spion, we found a little lane and a  typical Dutch home. Chickens  in the yard (silkies too!), sheep a little further along, gardens....We road in and began going through the large gates before a small bridge when we heard a women calling out to us. Eyes in the back of their heads I tell you! Tina greeted us and started to explain the layout in English, I confessed that I knew a little dutch and off she went talking in Dutch a mile a minute....I managed to extract the location for the tents, showers, toilet....everything else was superfluous.

Fort Spion is one of the many forts along the Nieuwe Hollandse Waterline, a unique defense line nearly 85km long consisting of sluices, dykes and canals. This waterline forms a protective semi circle around Holland's major cities (Utrecht, Rotterdam, Amsterdam) and would be used to flood the land during times of war, making it difficult for the enemy to pass through. Genius. Although, it never really got serious use.
Madalene and I strolling through Utrecht bike and bag free (Note Poppet and Tatonka locked to post) 
Typical canal, some buildings line the canal directly and often there is a walkway with restaurants/patios/shops to sit on and watch all the boats pass by.
Utrecht Domtoren, the tallest church tower in the Netherlands (112.5 meters/368ft). I loved the dressed up man on the left.
classic self portrait sitting in the window enjoying our beer and music festival.
One last stop for lunch in the park at the mussel festival before we leave town
 Beware any low hanging fruit, Madalene will find you and eat you. Spiders and webs....ma...she doesn't discriminate.