Friday, November 15, 2013

Day 82: Marmaris - Emecik

Tuesday October 29 Republic Day 
Cycle: 60.60km//4hr13min//14.31km/hr
October 29Republic DayCumhuriyet BayramıCommemoration of the proclamation of the republic in 1923. 
A shockingly late start too the day for us: 9:15! Reversing the explosion of gear that occurred yesterday, we pack everything into its rightful place in our panniers, and consider our breakfast options. Sadly, its difficult to fire up a camp stove in a hotel, so we can't easily make our usual coffees and egg sandwich. Change is good! Right? The pensiyon manager suggests a couple small local restaurants 'just' 10-15km down the road, in the direction we're headed. Against our better judgment, we consider this an acceptable idea, and set off. Five minutes later we're three minutes into a 10% grade climb with no end in site, having had no coffee, no breakfast. Typical really. Why would it be a flat easy 10-15km when Turkey has proven itself to be just the opposite in every direction? An hour later we're still climbing, and sweating in the mid day sun. The kind of sweat that drips off of your nose, chin, elbows, and through unmentionable folds and cracks. As the tripometer pushes 17km we are saved by a Pide Market. We sit down to beer (before breakfast!!), menemen, and a pide (Turkish pizza), with a small salad and tons of bread (which Jenn eats). So, after all that waiting, we did get a delicious lunch, but not breakfast... or coffee!

Two staples in Turkey. Olive oil. Green peppers.
I'm very excited to eat!
Turkish ingenuity. 
After breakfast/lunch, we set out for the Datca peninsula, a last minute change of plans. Previously we were headed for the Bozburun peninsula to do a day loop of cycling "for fun". Looking at the mountains that make up the Bozburun peninsula, we decide they would not be fun, not on this day, not for us. We will push on for Datca instead. Clearly we will have to come back to Turkey to see the Bozburun!

Again, 5 minutes later were three minutes into a 10% grade climb with no end in site. This time a sign informs that the end is in 3km. A long hour (or two) later and we're at the top. The views of the ocean and distant hills are pretty, what passes us by close up on the bike is exposed red or grey rock and sand, sprinkled with low lying scraggly shrubs as far as we can make out. Gone are the pine trees. Gone are the roadside attractions: a tethered goat, burst pomegranates, green oranges, even the ubiquitous water bottles have made way for: nothingness. Sadly, the water gods have also been reduce to a pathetic trickle and are coated with buzzing thirsty masses. 

Brutal climb to Datca. Its not often that I take a rest up hills. But, here I am.

Normally I wouldn't stop at this fountain. Graffiti, bees, a small trickle of water. But, desperate times call for these measures.
We roll through a couple of towns that appear asleep now that the tourist season is over. Nearing sunset, and our capacity to cycle up another hill, we find a spot next to a long lonely beach and pitch our tent to enjoy the brilliant colours of the setting sun. In the darkness, we can see Datca across the water, although still 15km away. There is life on this peninsula! Datca provides its own exclamation by bursting forth with red and white fireworks moments after I exclaim  "!" Republic Day 
Eye spy a lovely camping site.
And a beautiful sunset.