Arguably Inevitable: Cycle Touring Europe: Day 41: Lochaline - Isle of Mull (wild camp near Ulva ferry crossing)

Cycle: 80.4km // 5h29m // 14.69

Wednesday September 18

Today we rode coastline that may have replaced the Oregon Coast (in my mind) as the most picturesque, varied, and enjoyable to ride. From our riverside wild camp site we cycled into Lochaline, and took a ferry to Fishnish on the Isle of Mull. From there, despite on/off rain and strong headwinds, we decided to do a loop of the northern part of the Isle. Why? We asked ourselves this question later, and our only answer was, because we'd come this far, it seemed a shame to just head to Oban and get a ferry to the outer Hebrides. We headed to Dervaig via a secondary road through the middle of the island (avoiding traffic and constant hills). Unfortunately, it was headwinds most of the way to Dervaig, and flash rain storms just as quickly replaced by brilliantly sunny skies. The view of rolling green hills, and ancient exposed rocks shaped like giants steps up the hills kept us entertained (when we could see them). Arriving in Dervaig, there wasn't much for us (it was a B&B kinda place), so we headed to Calgary (the original).

Apparently the original Calgary isn't as booming as the Canadian knock off. We passed through it without realizing. However, we did not miss Calgary Beach, a beautiful sandy beach (the only one on Mull) surrounded by a flat plateau of green green grass (with prerequisite sheep... always with the sheep), and further behind that, black cliffs. We stared out at the shimmering ocean, but then the strong winds made us turn away and press on. Luckily, from Calgary the road did a 90 degree turn, and then climbed, climbed, climbed.... and then fell. We enjoyed a ripping descent to the coast, at times too fast for the narrow winding tracks we were riding on (20 degree declines!). The views were outstanding looking out at Ulva Island. It was all shimmering ocean and leprechaun green islands, clouds casting curious shadows and rainbows. The stuff of video games (Myst). Did I mention there was also a tail wind? Joy of joys! Still, despite the amazing riding, as 6 pm approached we were looking for reasons to stop. We happened upon a lovely little waterfall by the road. Upon further investigation (we were delaying riding on) we found one: 1) a drop-off cliff waterfall into the ocean, and 2) a perfectly flat and protected place to camp. The sun was shining, and we took it as a sign that this should be our place for the night. The rain held off and we dried some damp clothes (just abut everything is damp at this point), pitched the tent, and made noodle salad for dinner.